Archive for the ‘Left Coast Catering’ Category
On the Road
© Henry Dombey/FACECOLLECTIVE
Hi there. Just wanted to stop in for a second to let you know I’m on the road this week. I realize it is quite the week. So check back Tuesday for the recap of this week’s events on the show and a full update.
Not According to Plan
© Henry Dombey/FACECOLLECTIVE
Can anyone say disaster? I think Dana Cowin can, only she pronounces it “cat food.”
Yes, this week’s challenge didn’t go quite as I had planned: a rustic French pork rillette to pair with the French pinot noir I had chosen. For those of you who aren’t familiar with rillette, it’s a rustic French dish similar to a spread-able pâté. It’s traditionally stored in a crock covered in fat and served as a spread with toast points. My first mistake was probably attempting a dish that I’d never done with pork before. I had made several rillettes, always with rabbit, in which case the rabbit is salted overnight, braised in stock or water until tender, shredded and mixed with duck or goose fat. Turns out, there’s a slight difference in technique between rabbit and pork rillette, which is that pork is braised in fat, while rabbit is braised in liquid.
My arguably larger mistake here was attempting this lengthy technique in our limited amount of time. I skipped the salting and curing stages in the interest of brevity, and without this preparation, the meat needed more time to braise, not less. Sometimes you can, in fact, make several mistakes in the course of a disaster. I had never timed a braised dish before, as it’s not a cooking method dictated by time. Mostly braising is used for cooking tougher cuts of meat where heat, time and moisture aid in breaking down the tough connective tisuue and collagens. When it’s done, it’s done, but not a minute sooner.
I’d like to think that when made properly, a pork rillette would have been an excellent pairing for that French Pinot Noir, though of course it’s hard to say. It wasn’t my first choice of the wines we tasted, nor my second, nor my third. I’m not much of a red wine drinker, truth be told, as it more often than not gives me a headache. When I do partake, I enjoy pinot noir and I almost exclusively drink varieties from the Russian River Valley. Ask any Pinot lover and they’ll tell you that the best California Pinot grapes come from the unique blend of Goldridge and Franciscan soil, from the early morning fog, from the warm days, cool nights and afternoon sea breezes you’ll find only in the Russian River Valley, in western Sonoma County. Living in San Francisco, I would never buy a French Pinot Noir. It would be a waste of food miles for it to travel around the globe, when I could get a superior wine two hour’s drive from my house. Read the rest of this entry »
Sharing: The Occasion of a Dinner Party
© Henry Dombey/FACECOLLECTIVE
When Padma first announced that we were having a dinner party that night in our very own house, I was so excited. I love dinner parties. I love attending dinner parties and I love throwing dinner parties.
I realized quickly upon arrival back at the house that we were not guests at the dinner party, of course, but I was just as happy to be cooking. Especially for an all-start line up of chefs, including the likes of Tom Douglas, Nancy Silverton, Tyler Florence, Govind Armstrong and Takashi Yagihashi? I was stoked about this challenge from the start.
I felt lucky to draw Tyler Florence’s knife and to be paired with Brian. When we opened the refrigerator to find a tub full of California staples, I was entirely at ease; I felt right at home cooking in our cozy kitchen with familiar ingredients to boot. Read the rest of this entry »
Constructive Deconstruction
© Henry Dombey/FACECOLLECTIVE
I’ve never done deconstructed food. It doesn’t really interest me. It seems over-thought, with little consideration for pleasure or sustainability–an intellectual style of cooking that lacks character or soul. I understand that to deconstruct is to break down, to dismantle, but I can’t figure why you’d take something apart if it isn’t broken in the first place.
If you asked me, I’d tell you I can cook pretty much anything…so long as my heart is in it. Maybe that’s where this week’s task challenged me: present a classic dish, deconstructed in a new way. In my case, fish and chips. It seemed contradictory, to ask us to be creative, but classic, constructing in deconstructing.
I devoured the best fish and chips I ever had with a friend late at night alongside a cold beer, after working a long shift. I remember it feeling so well-deserved. Fish and chips should always be eaten that way, late at night in a hungry fever, out of a plastic red basket. Doing a deconstructed version not only seems silly, it’s just not food I’d want to eat. It doesn’t hit the spot without the context.
A Culinary Class of “Top Chef” Recipes with Cheftestant Laurine Wickett
Join us at Horatius in San Francisco for a culinary demonstration by Left Coast Catering’s Founder and “Top Chef” cheftestant Laurine Wickett.
Laurine will be demonstrating some of the dishes shown on Season 6 of Bravo’s Top Chef, including her bacon doughnuts and Moroccan lamb with pomegranate salsa. You’ll have the chance to learn some of the tips and techniques that earned her a spot on Season 6 of the renowned cooking competition. Cost per person is $55. Wines by the glass or bottle will be available for purchase during the class.
To register, please call 415.252.3500.
Tuesday, September 29, 6:30 pm
$55 per person*
Price includes class, 2 tastings of wine and recipe packet.
350 Kansas Street (between 16th and 17th streets)
San Francisco, CA 94103
*Attendees will receive a 10% discount off of all items purchased that evening.
horatius.com
415.252.3500
Adaptation
©Marianne Jackson
As a catering chef, I have cooked in all kinds of kitchens, with all kinds of equipment, and nevertheless, it is always expected that I will deliver great tasting food on a pretty plate at an appetizing temperature. In catering, there are no constants. Things are always different and often unexpected. If there is any one thing that catering has taught me, it is how to cook anywhere.
When the show this week asked us whether we could cook anywhere, I know a lot of the other cheftestants didn’t expect that to mean over a fire pit in the middle of the desert. We’d been told we would be spending a night on the ranch and that we’d have to cook a high-end lunch for the ranchers. Thinking back to it, I have to chuckle; so many people were really thrown by the change of scenery. I was okay with the plan, but I know I was one of the few who didn’t find the cooking environment and the sleeping arrangement outrageous. Having lived on a ranch in Colorado years ago, I had an inkling of what to expect and the possibility of outdoor cooking had occurred to me. I realize now how that early experience adapting to a rustic ranch kitchen prepared me well for catering, and more recently, this challenge. Read the rest of this entry »
High Culinary Art
© Henry Dombey/FACECOLLECTIVE
Perhaps this week I should start by explaining the importance of who we were cooking for, because it was a huge deal.
Joel Robuchon was the most influential French chef in the post-nouvelle era for cuisine and is still reknowned for the perfectionism with which he executed his food. He was seen as instrumental in leading French cuisine away from the excesses and excessive reductionism of nouvelle cuisine, and back to a more authentic, bourgeois French cuisine, which aimed to have each ingredient taste of itself. Besides this reputation, he was also named “Chef of the Century” by the French restaurant guide Gault Millau in 1989 and awarded the Meilleur Ouvrier de France (France’s Best Craftsman) in cuisine in 1976.
Daniel Bouloud was Executive Chef at Le Cirque from 1986 to 1992. His tenure saw the restaurant become one of the top rated in the country. Despite all of their accolades, I was most impressed with their humility. Both men are very warm and incredibly kind, despite their exacting methodologies.
Joel spoke to us following the challenge, expressing that he understood the difficulty of the task we were given and offered his respect for our undertaking–preparing traditional French proteins and sauces for a table of some of the best French chefs in the world.
Together in Pasta Salad: the Integrity of the Team
The morning of the air force challenge, I woke up a bit tired (it was still dark out!) feeling really excited about our day. We’d be preparing food for 300 men and women stationed out of Nellis Air Force Base, and we’d be working all together, as a team. Preeti and I both had catering experience, which seemed advantageous for the challenge where we were cooking for the Air Force. As a group, we had planned a strong lunch buffet with plenty of variety for the military crowd.
I quickly realized that we were actually cooking for the judges, not the service men and women. Turns out this was a team competition, whatever that means, not a team-building exercise, and even though we did well as a team, one soldier–or, chef, got left behind anyway.
Before seeing any of the products we’d be working with, the group decided that the Preeti and I would prepare a cold salad of some sort to round out the rest of the menu on what would likely be another blistering Las Vegas day. Upon arrival in the base’s kitchen, however, we found the quality of ingredients to be very low. A tricky hurdle to jump, when you’ve planned to make a cold salad. Although pasta salad seemed like a good choice initially, the pasta itself was so generic that it lost its shape and looked more like wrinkled rectangles than bow ties in our finished dish.
We were competing for Top Chef and had just made shapeless pasta salad. I was embarrassed. And Preeti was a total team player through all of this. As I was growing increasingly doubtful, she pointed out how well-suited our dish was for the time of day, location and weather. We could be thankful for at least one thing: at least we weren’t serving hot bowls of clam chowder in that heat.
What’s In a Kitchen
Watching Eve go home last night, I was thinking back to a conversation we had the day of that elimination challenge about the competition. Even before that day of cooking poolside, I know she’d been thinking of resigning the competition because the whole Top Chef thing wasn’t for her. I remember her telling me how happy she was with her life and her career in Ann Arbor, and how much she loves to keep learning about food and about cooking. Eve already has a successful restaurant and a cookbook under her belt, and didn’t feel like she needed to prove herself to Bravo or to the judges.
Of course some of the chefs, like the Voltaggio brothers, were more competitive. At this stage in the show, I for one, wasn’t thinking of the elimination challenge as a competition among the chefs but instead as an opportunity to cook great food for the groom and his friends. That’s probably the caterer in me. I suppose I was a lot like Eve on this challenge–I just wanted to cook alongside talented chefs to craft a great experience and make the guests happy.
There is obviously quite a difference between a top chef in the real world and a Top Chef on Bravo. Bravo seems to think that a chef should be a highly driven, hyper-competitive badass with the ability to create well-executed food in any kitchen, on any day, in any amount of time, to meet each week’s unexpected challenge. Can I say, that not in 20 years as a chef have I had to pair food with a shot? Great food and boozey shots have never gone particularly well together, in my experience, but I suppose the scenario makes for good television. And what do I know? I’m just the chef.
Bacon Donuts, Flying!
© Henry Dombey/FACECOLLECTIVE
Waking up this morning, I can’t tell you how relieved I was to have the first show under my belt.
The build up over the last few weeks has been one thing, but yesterday was entirely nerve wracking. My phone ringing off the hook and my email exploding with well wishes from friends and family members and it seems, every person I’ve crossed paths with over the course of my life. And amidst all of this anticipation, work was super busy. We were cooking for an event, the food came out well and we were on schedule…until I got a call from my driver, Juan, to tell me that the clutch in our van was out. Of course! Luckily he was only a block away and we were able to get another van, transfer the food, and still send him on his way in a moderately timely fashion, but a close call to be sure.
Watching the show last night was totally wild, to put it lightly. It’s still hard to believe that the experience I had in Las Vegas is at all related to the neatly packaged television show that debuted last night. The experience of it all was so emotional while we were living it. But with the buffer of the screen, it now seems so separate from being there and in many ways it is. The show you saw last night is such a small fraction of the whole, that the product hardly resembles what I remember feeling.