I returned from Barcelona a week ago and still, I find myself dreaming of Spain. The laid-back lifestyle of that country–where wine is cheaper than water, work is not everything and they take afternoons off–has sunk into my skin.
Not only are Spain’s people beautiful and well-dressed, but they also appear to lead a very low-stress existence. Miraculously, they eat all day long and stay relatively thin. What’s more, hams hang everywhere. Our mornings, in a very Spanish fashion, began each day with a visit to the neighborhood café where we drank café con leche and a pastry or bocadillo. We savored the morning, alongside most Barcelonians, who don’t take coffee to go but instead stay to enjoy their food and drink, catching up with friends or chatting with the café’s owner, who can almost always be found right across the counter, making your food.
In the afternoon, we visited the Boqueria Market, where it seems all of Barcelona does their shopping. Typically, markets give a good indication of what the locals are cooking, in time with the seasons, and Boqueria was no exception. We found chickens and game birds with heads still in tact, rooster combs, dried salt cod, snails, wild mushrooms, olives, fresh fish and several butchers with everything from whole baby pigs to offal. Some of the best sausages and hams in the world are to be found in those stalls.
Taking in the amazing ingredients, we worked up quite a hunger. Though there are two café’s located inside the market, we had been advised to try Pinotxo and so bellied up to its bar. Pinotxo’s menu is market driven and all the food is prepared right there, in front of you. We began with two glasses of Cava and their famous warm chickpeas with golden raisins, pine nuts and chorizo. This first plate was followed by gambas, which were still moving until they hit the plancha (sauté pan) and adorned simply with olive oil and salt, warm beans with squid and mushroom croquettes.
After an afternoon nap, we felt totally refreshed and ready for the evening. Naps really change everything. Since dinner wasn’t til 9, we needed a post-nap snack and found it at Bar Fidel’s where we drank local Mortiz’s beer and ate bocadillos. Then it was off to Tapas 24, by Chef Carles Abellan, who worked under the godfather of Spanish food, Ferran Andria, for six years. At this casual and extremely busy tapas restaurant, the kitchen was open and the service was friendly, which we soon realized was par for the course in Spain.
Though the food we ate in Spain was simply prepared, the level of service we experienced made each meal feel special. Ingredients fresh from the market, cooked in the plancha or the fryer and delivered to you in the blink of an eye with just a drizzle of olive oil. No fancy reduction sauce, no fancy description on a menu. Just fresh ingredients prepared expertly.
My time in Spain has made me re-think San Francisco style cooking and my own ideas about what comprises a good meal. Is 12 hours of preparation more appreciable than 12 minutes? San Francisco knows well by now the anthem for slow, local, market-driven fare, but heralds restaurants like Commis and Manresa, whose complex techniques are impressive, but perhaps at the expense of ingredients’ natural integrity. I think of the preparation time implied by each dish on such a menu, where the food is manipulated so completely from its original components that it can hardly be considered fresh.
I’m going to experiment with these principles for freshness, simplicity and slower pace into my life and my cooking. Although Left Coast was founded on these principles, I was ripe for a refresher course. My vision for the future feels clearer now.
